You won't regret it
Crampons, or even basic micro-spikes like these. Take them.
"Under ice and snow the ridge is for experts only..."
We should have paid more attention to that brief piece of advice from the Wainwright guide. We should all have had crampons in our packs - or spikes of some sort. Because what looks from the valley like an innocuous dusting of snow can turn out to be something different when you go up: an alarming succession of steep rocks, made treacherous by ice and slush, and wreathed in disorientating cloud.
The trip was a month and a half ago. But I was reminded of it just now while reading about Mallory climbing in the Lake District. He was at Wasdale Head in the summer of 1913 and we were around Blencathra and Skiddaw in the spring of 2024. I know: different seasons, different era, different people, they being proper climbers from back then. Even so, it did remind me.
Skiddaw from Blencathra
This year the fells sprang one of their spring surprises. Monster clouds enclosed the tops while sun shone down below. Blizzards were sweeping in, unseen from the valley; snow was piling up in the dips and clefts. It was knee-deep and up to the waist in the drifts. Two seasons seemed to exist together: wet and warm by the lake, the spring flowers making a show, and cold and wintry somewhere high up, out of view.
Warm by the lake, wintry upstairs
Except that it would be in view quite soon, because we were looking for a tasty route up to Blencathra top and had picked out Hall's Fell Ridge. Sharp Edge was to be avoided in these conditions, we had decided, so we'd opted to follow what Wainwright described as "positively the finest way to any mountain-top in the district". We were beguiled by the comfortable weather in Keswick and the sun seeming to push back the cloud.
Poles, stout boots, technical clothing, warm layers - all are useful on the mountain. But I'd say now, with the benefit of hindsight, that crampons or spikes of some type are essential on an icy day if your route takes you over rocks or along ridges.
An easy approach to Hall's Fell Ridge, then it gets trickier...
...and the rocks begin to rear up.
Hall's Fell Ridge, also known as Narrow Edge, takes you straight to the summit cairn of Blencathra, which makes it an attractive choice out of the many ways up. If you keep to the crest, you will need to scramble over some sections of steep rock with sheer drops on one side or the other. There is an easier path below the difficulties, apparently, but it was lost in the snow. I usually stay high, anyway, for ease of navigation.
On a summer day the Ridge would rate as an easy Grade 1 scramble. The grade becomes meaningless, though, in ice and snow or in any form of severe weather. The rock can be very slippery. Cloud adds to the feeling of exposure.
Looking ahead you can see how sharp the ridge becomes
My mountaineering boots were in Chamonix, along with my C2 crampons, but I had a pair of micro-spikes (AKA snow spikes, mini-spikes, or mini-crampons) in my pack to slip on if needed. Another member of the group had something similar. That was out of 9 people and not enough.
A note on micro-spikes. What you see when you take them out of their little bag is a set of spikes and chains held together by a tight oval of rubber which you stretch around your boot. Like crampons they are spikes which you attach to your footwear to help you make progress over ice and snow. Unlike crampons they are best on level or gently rising ground, and not designed for steep rock or ice. Most people would say that you shouldn't rely on them if you are risking anything more than an embarrassing tumble and some bumps and bruises.
However, at least one of our number was finding the terrain a challenge - and we were too far along the ridge to turn back. The route was becoming an ordeal. We pulled the spikes onto his boots and they made an instant difference, providing better grip and boosting confidence. The smiles returned and we moved on briskly.
Arriving at Blencathra top, and the descending trudge over Blease Fell
The lessons I take from this escapade are that I'll:
*get some C1 crampons to wear with my Scarpa SL boots
*carry the micro-spikes as well, just in case anyone needs them
*check what everyone else is carrying
*assess carefully whether the equipment is adequate for the conditions and the difficulty of the route.
It makes sense to take the gear if you are set on an ascent in wintry weather. However, there's a problem here, because most people don't venture into the hills wearing boots which are compatible with proper crampons. That leaves micro-spikes which aren't a reliable fallback on steep, rocky terrain.
So, throw in whatever crampons or spikes you have, as a precaution. But, if the route's too tricky, choose another, or stay at home.
Hall's Fell Ridge in full sun, a day later
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