Don't miss the goodies on the lower shelf.
Ffynnon Lloer.
If you are staying at Idwal Cottage in the Ogwen Valley, your most obvious walks are the magnificent horseshoe taking in Tryfan, the Glyders and Devil's Kitchen, and the matching horseshoe walk on the northern side of the valley, starting with a steep slog up to Pen yr Ole Wen and crossing the ridges and peaks of the high Carneddau, including Dafydd and Llewellyn. Trace the routes on the map with your finger. It is like tracing the two wings of a butterfly: one on each side, with Llyn Ogwen in the middle.
But there is a danger that by pulling out the signature cakes on the main display shelf and feasting on those, you will miss some of the dainties which are slightly hidden, lower down.
The walk up to the little lake of Ffynnon Lloer is one of the outings which it would be a pity to miss. I'm calling it Moonspring Lake in English, but am happy to be corrected if the translation is wayward.
Cross the road bridge from Idwal Cottage and walk upstream on the far bank of the river
The Tryfan horseshoe will take you the whole day. It took us eight hours in snow and ice. But the trip up to Ffynnon Lloer and back is the job of a couple of hours, a little longer if you move at a measured pace.
It is protected from the worst weather, as well. When we climbed up to the Carneddau the wind was strong enough to knock people over, while at the little Llyn you could hardly feel it.
Those are the practicalities. What you need to know, as well, is that the walk to Ffynnon Lloer is a beautiful one: along the quiet side of Llyn Ogwen, ascending alongside a gushing stream, and bringing you to a rocky and remote arena in the mountains.
Looking back to Tryfan, on the left, and the Glyders
Walk in the direction of Bethesda down the A road for a minute or two, then cross over and follow the sign pointing you to the Snowdonia Slate Trail, on the other side of the river. The route takes you through piles of boulders and all the way along the north bank of Llyn Ogwen. If you lose the path, watch out for the stakes which mark the way. You reach some farm buildings and turn up the valley, keeping to the right side of the stream, Afon Lloer, then crossing to the left. Climb a ladder stile over a wall and you are nearly there, but look back at the vista across Tryfan and the Glyders.
Now you walk into the arena of the little lake. When we visited a couple of weekends ago, the ground was covered in snow and ice, with hailstones frozen in. On your left is Pen yr Ole Wen (978m) and straight ahead is Carnedd Dafydd (1,044m). You feel enclosed; the rocks overhang. There is no one else.
Colin and Tim at Moonspring Lake
You can see, from the photo above, the scientific principle of the Prout Constant at work. It is the reliable rule that Colin Prout from our group cannot cover his knees, even in the coldest weather. For proof, see him below, the next day, up on Glyder Fach.
Anyway, once you have taken in the scene, you return the same way, though you could be brave and cut the corner on the way back, leaving out the farm. Be warned, there are dips which are thick with gorse.
Follow the Afon Lloer back down
If it is a winter afternoon, you can look forward to the wide views of the Ogwen Valley as the sun is sinking behind the mountains which stand in front of you. If a mist has come down, well, bad luck, and stick to the path.
Llyn Ogwen and Llyn Idwal (above) on the return from Ffynnon Lloer
After you dip below the height of the lake it disappears from view, of course. You know it is there but the landscape has folded up. But the effect is greater than that. The mountainsides seem to close across, hiding this secret Moonspring Lake, until the next time you or someone else hikes up the Afon Lloer to find it.
Frozen hail on Moonspring Lake
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