Cornish climbing on perfect granite.
I don't know much. For instance, I'd not climbed at Bosigran before. Hence, I didn't know about its wonderfully sticky but dry granite.
This rock is so generous to the climber - and that makes a big difference to a low grade operator like me. Not only generous but uplifting as well, because Bosigran Ridge gives you a spectacular journey from the crashing sea to a succession of spiky places high above.
Climbers on the first pitch, Bosigran Ridge
On this occasion, the rain poured down for a full 24 hours beforehand. You'd be forgiven for being a little apprehensive about the wet.
But Bosigran dries miraculously. The deluge slackened in the early hours, the sun popped out first thing and that was enough. By the time we got going the route was dry to the touch, except on the first pitch where there is always some moisture from the sea.
That first pitch is very airy for a VDiff and requires that you resist an inviting corner and, instead, make for a forbidding wall looming just beyond. But these few metres of vertical rock, black and damp, are a better option. The handholds appear just in time. Luckily, I had Pete Greening to show the way.
There's a bit of a chimney, then a series of points and pinnacles to surmount, with one or two sections à cheval, if that's your thing. The whole route divides into about eight pitches and puts you in some fabulous positions with views out to sea, along the jumbled coast and down to Porthmoina Cove.
Porthmoina Cove and (below) the full ridge from the other side of the cove
The "father" of Cornish sea-cliff climbing, Arthur Andrews, was the first to find his way down to the base of Bosigran Ridge and along its full extent, back in 1902. I emphasise the challenge of finding the way down because the descent is a bit of conundrum, involving a crossing of the the route itself and a couple of abseils or lowerings. It would be easy to take a wrong turning and turn the climb into an epic before you've even started!
Once at sea level, you find yourself on the western side of a neb that would be battered by waves at high tide or in heavy weather. The leader disappears eastwards around the neb to set up a belay a few metres on, or simply continues with the first pitch. The problem with going on is that you're out of sight and probably out of earshot once you've gone any distance.
The neb's just behind me, then (below) the first full pitch takes you well beyond the belay
Everyone will find there own way - and Pete claims that those who know Bosigran Ridge well can leap along it solo in 20 minutes. Good luck with that!
By the way - I know - it's called Commando Ridge as well. No need to be a commando these days, though.
Here's the UK Climbing link for Bosigran Ridge and one here from Rockfax
Credit for the shots of me to Pete Greening
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